Pu Luong Nature Reserve, just a stone's throw from Hanoi, makes for an idyllic and scenic getaway from the big smoke.
In the words of the local Thai people, Pu Luong means the "highest peak", it's loftiest zenith towering 1,700m above the valleys of Quan Hoa and Ba Thu, in Thanh Hoa Province.
The nature reserve is close to several other favoured tourism attractions, including Cuc Phuong National Park and Mai Chau. The close location combined with location lush wildlife make Pu Luong an ideal destination.
From the valleys of Mai Chau down through the fifty odd kilometres, Pu Luong offers stunning scenery, matched only by its sheer tranquillity.
Ben Lac Village plays host to many of Mai Chau's visitors, and as it is only a few hours from Hanoi, it's a popular weekend getaway. Mai Chau treats visitors to home stays in Thai stilt houses, and the chance to pick up some traditional woven textiles in the surrounding villages.
Just 20 km along highway 15A from Mai Chau, the drive to Pu Luong is quick and trouble free.
From Mai Chau, it's an easy 20km trip to Phu Le commune in Quan Hoa District. From there, a number of spectacular trips can be taken through Thanh Son, Lung Liem, Co Lung and Lung Cao, all communes of Ba Thuoc District.
Thai and Muong people in the hamlets surrounding Pu Luong lead lives steeped in tradition and customs, and they remain largely uninfluenced by modern means. Long held Muong and Thai cultural observances are celebrated in each season of every year and the natural setting inspires musical performances particular to the area.
The rhythms pounded out by a group of Duong musicians send the message that the villagers are celebrating. It's a noisy way of signifying the village’s prosperity, be it in food or in tradable goods.
From the moment you arrive in Pu Luong, you are treated as a guest of honour, and a jar of local rice wine will be on hand to celebrate. A few drams of rice wine are beloved to enhance the collective spirit, and are an important observance for local people.
Kho Muong village nestles in a scenic valley, and greets its visitors with views of stilt houses. Drawn on the valley with brisk strokes, springs gush from the earth, and rice paddies puddle at the foot of mountains, shrouded in cloud.
A brisk walk leads to Hang Doi, the bat cave. Just one of many caves that riddle Pu Luong, Hang Doi is a roost for several of the 24 species of bats that live in the area. Several thousand individuals roost here, filling its nooks and crannies, the bats giving a deliciously mysterious and eerie character.
From Mai Chau, there are several guided tours on offer, which run from one to three days.
Pu Luong is a universe of experiences and sights. The cool waterfalls of Hien village, the spectacular views from Son Ba Muoi village, and the water wheels of Ban Cong and Co Lung.
In Lung Liem, don't forget to stop by the Don market, once the principal city of a bygone era. Energy thrives in this market, which bustles with trade.
Visiting a Thai village, you should sample the local delicacies and drink, as these aspects run deep in local culture. Com Lam, sticky rice, steamed in a bamboo tube, has long been a staple in the area, and makes for a satisfying meal.
Simply put the rice into a hollow bamboo or reed tube, fill with water and heat over a fire. Rotate the tube to cook evenly, and the rice will soon be ready to eat. Simply crack the tube open, and peel it like a banana. Proper, well-mannered and dexterous, Thai girls know how to prepare a delicious meal in a flash.
Every evening the Thai people will welcome you to join their party. The bong tree symbolizes a longing for spring. So when the tree begins to bud, and fruit fills the garden, its time to celebrate the abundance of food once again. The Kin Chieng flower folkdance is particular to the Thai of Pu Luong. They dance to thank heaven and earth for the seasonal return of their prosperity.
Both inside and outside the stilt house, singing and dancing celebrations are an ongoing affair.
Thai people are proud of their unique traditional dances, which are their wealth of culture and heritage.
They use all kinds of props, be it flowers, fans, kerchiefs, scarves or hats, they dance to their traditional musical instruments. Their dances are simple and gentle, yet playful and lively, drawing one into their long history.
When invited to dance, it is hard to refuse to offer to jump into the traditional bamboo pole dance. There as you make friends, and learn the dance, you may get more than your ankles caught. Long lasting memories are forged for guests, as they are welcomed into the fold with open arms.
You can join the HCM Highway from Cuc Phuong, an easy trip from Hanoi. From Cuc Phuong you can easily get to Pu Luong, travelling less than 200 km.
While on the road be sure to stop at Cam Thau cave, where nature keeps many wondrous secrets. In Ca Thau Cam Luong cave, schools of fish jostle one another in crystal clear water.
Legend tells some fishy stories here, tales of the magical Thany, after whom the cave is named. Anyone who catches fish here will meet a messy end. Protected by legend, the fish live undisturbed in a clean environment.
Three kilometres past the town of Canh Nang is the boundary of Pu Luong. There bubbles the Pung spring, and the suspension bridge of Phu Thanh.
Local villages lie hidden in the clouds, where people live simply, unaffected but excited and fond of meeting strangers. These rustic folk are enthusiastic and genuinely wish to please their guests. They are happy to receive you and hope you will come again.
There are a bevvy of interesting things to see in Pu Luong, and its future tourism potential is easy to see. Promotion of tourism and raising living standards in the community are synonymous with increased efforts to protect the forest. In order to continue attracting visitors, the forest itself must be as protected as a priceless resource.
A number of maps have been drafted for proposed tours running deep into the limestone mountains. Cuc Phuong and Van Lon National Reserve are a part of the Pu Luong area, thereby demanding the soft tread of eco-tourism in future.
In 1999, the Vietnamese government set aside Pu Luong as a nature reserve, thereby preserving and protecting the lush forests and traditional way of life in the area.
Pu Luong was picked for preservation as it lays claim to a rich ecosystem, in which a multitude of plant and animal species thrive among limestone mountains.
More than 1000 plant species thrive in Pu Luong, in a lush floral cascade, and providing refuge for 39 endangered plant species.
